Maybe the problem is between the Stool and the Saw

Maybe a better name
“Things that I have learned and do not want to forget “
Work in progress trying to put down some thoughts  I really need to update this

Update:  I started using Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #5 blades when they first came out, I have now switched to Pegas Scroll Saw Blades Modified Geometry blades and finding a #3 works well following very detailed cuts.

Square the blade to the table. Side to side making sure the blade is in the center of the holder, (Front to Back as I like accuracy over speed). If I have a blade slipping out.. I pull the tip out and wipe it clean. make sure it spins freely. drill 4 7/32 holes in a thin board (1/2″) and turn the thumb screw and the set screw into the holes just to the face of the board.

Top Feeding

If you are top feeding just loosen the pressure, release thumb screw, only lift the saw a little over your last cut with one hand and move the next hole to the blade, lower the blade slowly and reach under the table with the other hand and push the blade into the clamp. tighten the thumb screw.. add tension to the saw.. cut and then repeat over and over.. just takes practice,



Johnson Paste Wax in the yellow can At least once a week, or any time you feel like the cutting is not going at your normal speed.
Blue Painters Tape


I use shelf liner


77 I cover everything that I am going to cut with blue Painters tape, I then spray the blue tape with spray adhesive, and spray the back of the pattern with a good coat as well. no patterns seem to come up even after leaving them glued up for a few months.
I do not like covering anything in clear tape. 1st because it’s hard to see when you remove it from the wood, 2nd because if you cover a pattern with it sawdust collects between the pattern and the tape and then the pattern comes loose.
General cutting 3/4 Hardwoods Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #5
for very hard or larger wood then #7
Portraits 1/8 Baltic birch
1/4 Oak Plywood
Flying Dutchman Penguin Silver Reverse #1
Stack cut 2 1/8 otherwise it is very hard to cut.
I cannot use round blades have tried several times.
3D 1 1/2 wood Flying Dutchman POLAR #5 or Pegas Super Skip #5. You DO NOT want reverse teeth when cutting real thick wood.. You need to clear the sawdust. The #5 will give good detail if your doing compound cutting 3D.

Use a 3D Scroll Saw Cutting Jig – YouTube
Leave about 1/2″ of wood at the base uncut to hold things together. and leave some wood at the top as well.
Drill a starter hole for each side, when finished cutting the sides then cut off the bottom.
To keep things together.  Wrap the wood and pattern in clear packing tape.
After the first side is cut, put on another coat of tape to hold things together.

1/2 Hardwoods Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #3
Puzzles 1/4 Baltic Birch Flying Dutchman Superior Puzzle blade
I use a 1/8 piece with the pattern over the 1/4 wood that has the Picture glued to it.
I spray a very good coat of Duro glue to both the Picture and to the wood.
then Clear tape to wrap the 2 pieces together before cutting.
Finishing Hardwoods I use General Finishes Original Seal-A-Cell Clear Wipe-on Formula. (The Watco smell lasts to long for me)

I do NOT wipe it on, I give all of my cuts a one minute bath in it, then left on newspaper for about 10 minutes, next I dry them with air compressor and shop paper towels. I then let them air dry for about a week they are ready for the next step.

For trivets that’s all they get.

For the rest of my work they get 2 coats of Deft semi-gloss, and then a sanding with 320 and one final coat of deft followed by a rubbing on a brown paper bag

Blade Storage
I place a gross dozen into glass cigar cases. and as I open a dozen blades I put them into smaller tubes (from Seyco).. I have a magnet in front
Square the Blade to the
Center the blade in the top and bottom holders.
Square the blade to the table..(level doesn’t matter)Use a board with a factory edge.. that is about 2 inches high.
make sure that you can fit it where the saw will not hit it when you make a cut.Use the smallest blade that you have and make a straight cut into the wood.Lay the wood down flat in front of you on the table and put a square to the bottom edge and line it to the cut.If it is not square. take the pressure off of the blade and adjust the set screw .try again.. until the blade cuts square to the wood.Then to see if it is OK cut the shape of a 3 leaf clover using your regular blade and wood.. it should slide in and out from both the top and the bottom. if not try moving the wood slower and turn the blade speed up.